Chapter Twenty: The islands of the archipelago

The islands of the archipelago

In many occasions, actually always, you can throw your lonely planet away, your itinerary should be formed by the people you meet on the road. I met an Italian couple who were staying 4 months in the Philippines (to long according to them). They mentioned port Barton, the best spot for island hopping and also extremely laid back compared to El Nido. I can tell you, it is! El Nido is recommended by many books, but port Barton is where you wanna go. I'm typing this while I'm sitting, more lying on a tree trunk in front of a reggae bar looking at the archipelago; fishing boats are floating in the turquoise waters, surrounded by many little islands, more further the summits of volcanoes whose explosive days of glory are far, far behind them and now they are nursing the sea life around their feet. Still, as old as they are, they are the massive silent guards of port Barton, the watchers of the good life. Life here is laid back as it ever will be.

Although I make a comparison here above, I don't know how El Nido looks like, but of course I will see. A minute ago I spoke to a French couple who actually recommend El Nido for island hopping, I will do both. So itineraries develop while I'm typing...
The Philippines means rum, I'm rewarding myself with a little bottle. After a week of no smoking thus drinking I test myself if I can handle it....so far so good!! But I can run through walls...

Island hopping in port Barton is just wauw, walking between islands through shallow water...standing in the middle of the sea on a sandbank...following massive turtles (1,5 mtr) while snorkeling...lunching in a hammock on paradise islands, and I mean really paradise island. Compared to other island hopping places like Indonesia and Thailand, the Philippines (Palawan) stands out, it's just a little bit more and better of everything...and I haven't seen the islands of El Nido yet.

The last days of my journey I decide to book nothing and I'll see on arrival where to sleep, so more surprises. With pain in my heart I leave Port Barton, what a laid back place. Barbecuing on the beach, live music, fantastic sunsets, good people around me...I must really go back to the real world, otherwise I will never return....lost in translation....but I know I can't.
 I decide to hire a local fishermen to bring me to San Vicente...and I thought I achieved a point that I seen it all, clearly not. On arrival the locals guided me to a beach with a little resort. No booking, no rooms available, just a bamboo hut or more a shelter against the sun and that will be my sleeping place, but only 10 meters away from the beach. The beach itself, 14 kilometers long, white, no sand but powder, empty, just empty. Afterwards I heard that this will not be the case for long, it's the second longest beach in Asia and plans are already made for further development...so I just enjoy the moment....another piece of the jigsaw puzzle falls perfectly in its place.
My days on the long beach in San Vicente are really, really basic, basically back to nothing. It's good that I end my journey in the Philippines. It's quite wild, more rural than other countries, but also extremely beautiful. If you avoid the luxurious resorts you will be rewarded with stunning views and sceneries, the price you need to pay is that you are out of your comfort zone and accept low standards of everything. Koh Ta Kiev had more comfort. Comfort is a luxury on the Philippines. 

Despite that I had a mosquito net, little sand flies came through. Everywhere around me there were ants, as long as you did not step on their trail, they did not bother you. Feeling sweaty and sandy did not make my night more comfortable (no private shower, just a public one with no walls). Still it will be nights that I will never forget. The stars at night were unbelievable, every night a show. More brighter than in the Gobi desert, moonlight glowing on the sea as it falls below the horizon. Little earthquakes felt like a sleepy massage, although in the beginning it felt weird. You almost could feel the tectonic plate moving beneath you....I am in the center of the ring of fire...a place I will never forget.
Next stop El Nido, this time I traveled by van. Filipinos drive like crazy, within 5 minutes the driver killed a dog, on my way to port Barton we almost hit a little girl...a little proof of their explosive nature. The ride to El Nido is again an unbelievable trip, I hardly understand how they accomplished such a work through mountains and rainforest. In the beginning I was thinking this may take forever, but this was before we drove with 100 km p/h through villages. My heart stopped several times because we drove so close to children. Despite many comments from us 'the passengers', the driver was deaf and didn't slow down. Without any damage or killing someone we arrived here in El Nido. First impression, not so bad, expected worse, actually a quiet peaceful place. But it became clear later on that half the village was island hopping, sitting on a terrace I saw the fleet of boats returning, looked liked they came back from a war.

Next day island hopping El Nido, I was a part of an army setting out for sail, me and hundreds of other tourists. Luckily I met some nice English ladies who made my day a lot better. The islands are great around el Nido, the laguna's as well, but extremely crowded. The combination of the darkgrey green islands, covered with green trees contrasted very well with the sea. But also the aggressive rock formations, pushed into the daylight by the more aggressive molted rock below, fitted perfectly with the tranquil blue.
Despite the crowd, I had my moment with the sea, a good goodbye, a farewell to the crystal waters, a last look in the blue...swimming to a rock that was piercing out of the water I just sat there for a while...saying goodbye with the promise that we will meet again, sometime.